Tuesday, December 22, 2009

The End.

Johannesburg was not quite the city adventure that I expected. The city itself is quite dangerous, rather large, and very cumbersome to travel around. Instead of attending all of the events we had planned, Uejin, Ben, and I spent most of our time moseying around and just observing. Somehow we made it in and out of Joburg everyday without any issues. Our biggest excursion was to the Apartheid Museum. This museum depicted what Apartheid was like for people of all races. Due to time constraints we only had two hours to spend in the museum, but I easily could have spent five hours reading all of the material provided. The rest of my stay in Johannesburg was spent reflecting on my grand adventure. My two other travel buddies and myself relived many of the great moments we shared over the past four months. Our favorite memories included safaris, our homestay families, visiting clinics, and goat slaughterings.
After five days in Joburg I had to hop on a plane to head back home to good ole Eugene, Oregon. I was excited to come home to the comforts of home, but very, very sad to leave South Africa—a country that I now love. Ben and I traveled together for 40 hours to get back to Portland where our excited families met us. We were very exhausted from the traveling and the time change, but it was still great to see our families and share a classic American meal at Red Robin.
So now I am sitting in my warm, cozy bed in America writing this blog post. I have been home for nearly three days and I am still not accustomed to home. I left 90 degree weather and an 8 pm sunset in South Africa for freezing temperatures and darkness at 5 pm in the Northern Hemisphere. Not only has the weather been a big change, but the time difference has knocked me off my feet. Today was the first day that I stayed awake the entire day with no naps—a big event for someone who is extremely jet-lagged! Despite some adjustment issues, it has been great to be home for the holidays and catch up with family and friends. I return back to school soon where I will continue with classes, lacrosse, and a Resident Assistant position. I don’t know if I’m ready to return to my duties and obligations, but time will not wait for me.
And so that is the end of my South African adventure physically. However, I am still mentally and emotionally on an adventure as I reflect upon all the lessons learned. I have enjoyed writing up my stories and sharing them with you. I hope you have found some sort of enjoyment, laughter, or even sadness in reading my stories. I would love to share more with you in real life at some point.
I love you all and thank you for your support in my endeavors.

Salani Kahle (Stay well).

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Into "The Bush"

Cape Town = Amazing. Such a beautiful city in both a man-made and natural sense. My last two days in Cape Town were primarily spent doing more touristy events. We visited Robben Island to tour through the prison that held both political prisoners and criminals during Apartheid, including Nelson Mandela. I was surprised to learn that this island actually functioned as a small town with schools, hospital, post office, and housing. I was picturing more of a small Alcatraz-like island with literally just a prison, but Robben Island is actually a functional town. After Robben Island we hit up the most gorgeous beach I have ever seen in an area called Camp’s Bay. I can definitely see why people like Leonardo DiCaprio and Charlize Theron would have houses overlooking this beach.
Unfortunately it rained my last day in Cape Town, but this gave us the chance to catch up on a handful of important tasks. Firstly, I went shopping one last time to pick up a few essential souvenirs. Secondly, a few of us went with a friend we met in Durban to get lunch at a local restaurant to see what real Capetonians eat like…it was not like the tourist food we had been eating on the beachfront. Lastly, two of my friends and I had a night on the town to check out some of the dance clubs. I must say that for a Monday night Cape Town still knows how to party. Overall Cape Town was a wonderful experience and I highly recommend visiting the area if the opportunity arises.
Next I traveled to “the bush” with my friend Uejin. I must say, it was hard to say goodbye to the rest of the group in Cape Town; Uejin and I spent a lot of time reminiscing about the good ole days and nearly everything we did turned out to be nostalgic in some way. It was good to be out in the middle of nowhere to have a reflection period. Here are some highlights from my time spent in “the bush” AKA Kruger National Park:

Day 1: Uejin and I flew into Nelspruit Airport then caught a 3-hour-long bus ride to our camp. The bus ride was quite enjoyable and a great way to see the country-side, although we stuck out like sore thumbs on the bus. We were on a commuter bus for workers living in rural areas, so our hiking backpacks, huge bottles of water, and the color of our skin gave us away as tourists. Nonetheless, we made it safely to our pick up spot where our animated tour guide, Andre, fetched us. We arrived to our camp where we set-up camp in an adorable tent.
Day 2: We moseyed around the game reserve, took a nice nap, ate some porridge, and went on a “sundowner” safari. Uejin and I both agreed that a day can’t get much better than this one. The sundowner safari started around 4 pm and ended after the sunset at 7 pm. We saw just about every animal, including lions! Unfortunately, we failed once again at spotting the Big 5 because we did not see a leopard. For those who do not know, the “Big 5” is the elephant, rhino, lion, buffalo, and leopard. They are called the “Big 5” not because they are the biggest animals or the most prevalent, but because they are the five most dangerous animals to hunt.
Day 3: Andre Adventure day! Andre is a talkative Afrikaans man who Uejin and I view as a grandfatherly figure. We were pretty excited to have him show us around the Kruger area. First we drove up through the Blyde River canyon, which happens to be the third largest canyon in the world, behind the Grand Canyon and some canyon in the Amazon (name never remembered by Andre). We then visited the Muhalohalo game conservation center. Uejin and I petted a cheetah, fed a vulture, and touched a baby rhino! We also learned quite a bit about how game reserves function and some of the issues behind them.
Day 4: Another lazy day. We were both pretty tired so we just relaxed in the camp. It was quite nice to have some down time after a semester of work and traveling.

And that brings us to Johannesburg! Uejin and I flew from Nelspruit back to Johannesburg for one last go at South Africa. Joburg is a big city with lots to do, so we will keep entertained. One of the events we are looking most forward to is a “carnivore feast.” Basically we understand this to be a buffet of all sorts of African meats, including ostrich, antelope, and crocodile. While in Joburg I plan on mentally preparing myself to return back home. Many things will be different for me once I return home both mentally and physically. One of the biggest issues will be jumping into a full-blown winter back in the Northwest! I have enjoyed a solid 6 months of summer, so the weather may be one of my biggest battles. See you all soon for a cold Christmas!

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Baboon Attack

It's been a crazy week. It all started with the goodbyes in Durban. Leaving the city limits of Durban one last time was really rough. Not knowing exactly when or if I'll be able to return to such a wonderful place is a hard idea to grasp. Luckily my program knows that these goodbyes are hard so they whisked us away to a safari. We spent an entire 10 hours riding in a safari jeep in the St. Lucia game reserve. Unfortunately we didn't see the "Big 5," but we did see quite a few animals, including zebras, giraffes, elephants, rhinos, and buffalo. It was quite windy and cold, but we were able to cuddle up together under blankets and enjoy the ride.

The next day we went on a boat tour of the St. Lucia delta to see hippos! I greatly enjoyed this boat trip because hippos are by far the most interesting animals in South Africa. Did you know that they mate under water? Or that they have a bite pressure of 3 tons? Or that they can stay under water for 6 minutes? Fascinating. Anyways, after the boat tour we all hopped back into the vans and took the long journey back to Johannesburg. At about hour 8 I started experiencing cabin fever, but I managed to subdue the symptoms until we arrived. It was our last night together as a group of 29 students, so emotions were high. Saying goodbye to most of the group the next morning was another hard experience. We shared so many joys and challenges together. We often talked about how we were the only ones that really knew and would understand what we have been through and how we have changed. I guess that's what makes our experience unique.

So three days ago I hopped on a plane to beautiful Cape Town! There are 9 of us in Cape Town currently, and we have managed to see much of the city and the surrounding areas. On the first day we walked around town and beach front to get acquainted with the city. The next day four of us took a day-long tour of Cape Point, Cape of Good Hope, and Simon's Town to see penguins. This city may easily have the most breath-taking views I have ever seen. Another thing that took my breath away was a run-in with a baboon. As some of you may know, I eat a lot and I eat frequently. Not really thinking I rolled out of our tour bus with a pb&j after our tour guide said several times that baboons are vicious and will take your food. This mother baboon carrying a baby literally sprinted towards me and started to climb up my arm to grab my sandwich. I threw it on the ground and the baboon took it. She didn't even share it with her baby. Needless to say, all of my friends really appreciated the visual experience of my baboon attack.

Well, last night was quite the experience. So there is this little thing going on next year in South Africa called the World Cup. And last night they had the final draw for the World Cup here in Cape Town and it was absolutely NUTS. There was a huge street party that of course I attended. It required a few stampedes across barriers and run-ins with crazy soccer fans, but it was amazing. They say that we attended one of the biggest parties in Cape Town :) Today we all recovered and went on a bike tour to go wine tasting. I don't drink, but I did selectively choose a few wines to taste. I must say that I don't really have an appreciation for wine, but riding around the wine country on a mountain bike was really fun.

I have two more days in Cape Town, which will consist of visiting Robben Island, a few beaches, and going on a few hikes. I'm loving Cape Town, but definitely missing Durban. Such a bittersweet time.

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Durban Goodbye

Hello there!

I am officially on winter break! I finished my paper and now I’m off to adventure around South Africa. It feels wonderful to be done with all of the academic work, but obviously it’s tough because that means I have to say goodbye to people and places. It has been a long goodbye process, so I’m actually happy that today I leave Durban and just rip the Band-Aid off. It’s tough now, but it just has to happen.

These past few days have been packed with last minute activities. I have spent much of my time just walking around, taking pictures, shopping at street fairs, packing, and saying goodbyes. And I ended on a great note yesterday with the first soccer game to ever be played in the new World Cup soccer stadium! It was pouring down rain, but that didn’t damper our spirits. The game was also sold out so we had to scalp tickets…but it was SO worth it.

So today I leave my home city of Durban to go on a two-day safari with my class in St. Lucia. On Thursday we travel back to Johannesburg to catch our flights to various locations. I am first flying to Cape Town to go on a bike-riding-wine-tasting tour, visit penguins on Simon’s Island, and visit Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned during Apartheid. Four days later a friend and I fly to Kruger National park to go on safaris. This is the leg of the trip that I am most excited for…I can’t wait to spend some quality bush time with lions and elephants! Lastly, I fly back to Johannesburg to spend a few days venturing around. I then hop on one last plane to be back on December 18th! It for sure will be a whirlwind tour and I hope to be able to post at least a few more updates.

I hope everyone is getting ready for the holidays because I will be ready to party hard!
Miss you all!

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Porridge Love

Good weekend. Friday night was absolutely amazing. I went on an outstanding beach run in the afternoon to clear my mind. I will definitely miss running in the sand along the beautiful Indian Ocean with the warm South African sun heating the air. I then came back to my apartment and baked a few chocolate cakes to give to all of the wonderful people that I work with at the Down Syndrome Association. I quickly spiffied up and was escorted by two friends to a hotel just down the street where I met Jörn and Christa Moeller from Germany! Over a delicious buffet dinner we shared four years worth of stories. Once midnight hit I decided I should finally leave their hotel because they had to get up early the next morning to catch a flight to Cape Town. Words cannot explain how awesome it was to see their familiar faces after three months of continually meeting new people.

Saturday was the last day I spent working with the Down Syndrome Association. I attended a support group for mothers of children with Down syndrome at a local church. I loved speaking to the mothers and playing with their adorable children—plus I gained some crucial data for my paper. Always a plus. Afterwards I met with my project advisor to discuss the direction of my paper. Saturday was definitely bittersweet because I finally finished collecting all of my data, but I also had to end my time with the Down Syndrome Association. All of the people with the association took me under their wings and really helped me in any way possible. It makes me feel warm inside to know that there are people who really want to make a difference in others lives and actually succeed in doing so.

Saturday night and Sunday consisted of a rotation of relaxation and work periods. I have been working fairly diligently on my paper, but taking numerous study breaks whenever needed—usually about every hour. My paper is actually coming along quite smoothly and I have about 30 pages written. I’m guessing another 20 to 30 pages and I will be set! My project advisor was really happy with all the progress was made, so hopefully that happiness carries over another week for when she grades my paper. As for the study breaks, I have done more street shopping (probably my favorite past time), sunbathed on the beach, swam in the ocean, went on beach runs, ate some ice cream, made phone calls to the states, and had deep discussions with my flat mates about our lives in South Africa. I also have a new obsession with porridge. I picked up a bag of vanilla flavored porridge in the grocery store last week and now it’s all I can think about. When I finish a section of my paper I reward myself with a bowl of porridge. When I’m hungry for dinner and I try to think of what I should make, porridge consumes my thoughts and that is all I can fathom of eating. Luckily I discovered this fetish in my last few weeks here, because if I had discovered it earlier I would probably return back to the states extremely malnourished. Anyways, overall I had a very fulfilling weekend in the good ole city of Durban.

Aaaand now it’s Tuesday morning. I have spent the last day and a half locked away in my penthouse dominating my paper. It has entirely consumed my life. I realized at 5 p.m. yesterday that I had not left the apartment so I took a brisk walk along the beachfront. Luckily I have actually been enthusiastic about writing my paper and it’s still coming along nicely. I also motivate myself to work on my paper by telling myself that this is nothing compared to University of Puget Sound finals.

Colors

I think I mentioned this previously, but I have found a GENIUS way to rapidly dry small articles of clothing! All of my flatmates LOVE it!
This is a family penthouse dinner that we shared a few weeks ago. One of my flat mates, Sonika, cooked us an Indian style dinner then showed us how to eat with our hands.

My German parents! Here is visual proof that I actually met up with them in South Africa! Shout out to Jorn and Christa!



Friday, November 20, 2009

German Parents

It surprisingly has been an uneventful week for once. At times when things were hectic I had hoped for a week like this, but then when I actually had a slow pace week I missed the daily chaos. I have decided that studying abroad plays major mental and emotional games with you. You think you want one thing, and then you realize you want the other.
It’s a possibility that I want the chaos to return because this week has just been filled with the monotony of working on my independent project. I have actually hunkered down and started writing, which can get old in just a short amount of time. I have also been experiencing cabin fever in my apartment because of a large storm that rolled through Durban. It was so rainy and windy that my rides were unable to pick me up to take me to work. And needless to say, I wasn’t really able to leave the apartment to go on a jolly ole stroll through Durban. So as study breaks my flat mates and I have dance parties to MTV music videos. Although I was unable to leave the apartment, it was pretty amazing to watch such a powerful force come over the ocean. I don’t think I have ever seen such large white caps.
Okay prepare yourself for something that will blow your mind. Andrea, a German exchange student that lived with my family in high school, sent me an email earlier this week saying that her parents are currently vacationing in South Africa. They happen to be passing through Durban tonight. Not only are they staying in a hotel literally two buildings down from my apartment, but they are free tonight and want to take me out to dinner! I have not seen them since I spent a summer with them in Germany four years ago. And to think that of all the places I would meet them again it would be in Africa! I absolutely cannot wait to see some familiar faces tonight.
This weekend will consist of one last day with the Down Syndrome Association and more paper writing. Unfortunately not the most exciting way to end my time in Durban, but I guess I am here to be a student. I just need to keep reminding myself of that. Salani kahle!

Monday, November 16, 2009

A Few Visual Images

To supplement today's post, here are a few pictures from the past month or so:

This is my Mama Ningi, bhuti Aslam, myself, and Ben at the farewell dinner for our families. This is right before my Mama pressured me into giving a speech about how wonderful she is. Ben is also proudly showing off a bracelet he made.




We planted trees for a rural community using pick axes, shovels, and pitch forks...all while wearing long skirts. No big deal.





This is a view from my 13th floor penthouse's balcony. Incredible.





Sunday, November 15, 2009

Bafana Bafana

I have officially realized that my time here in South Africa is rapidly dwindling. I took a good look at my calendar and realized that I have exactly two weeks to finish my project, write my paper, venture around Durban, and say goodbye to everyone. It makes me sad to think that I have to leave a place that I have grown so close to in just a short time. However, I am looking forward to returning home to a familiar and comfortable environment. Plus, it will be Christmas time, meaning family, friends, and food.
Last week I continued to work on my practicum with the Down Syndrome Association. I visited a school for special education and helped out in a classroom. When the teacher asked what famous people come from the United States, the top two answers were Michael Jackson and Barack Obama. Obviously the students were up on their contemporary news. Later in the week I walked through a therapy center in the township of Phoenix. I was extremely impressed by what the center had to offer as far as multidisciplinary healthcare goes, but disappointed when I learned that it is the only such center in the entire province of KwaZulu Natal.
This weekend was relatively relaxed, which is what I wanted for going into these next two hectic weeks. On Saturday, I visited my Cato Manor family one last time. Once again I felt right at home hanging out on the plastic covered couches and watching Usher music videos. Unfortunately my older brother, Mino, was working overtime on Saturday so I did not get a chance to see him. Luckily he called me today to at least say goodbye over the phone. It was extremely difficult to say goodbye to my Mama for good. There were definitely tears shed.
After my farewell I went over to a friend’s house to watch the Bafana Bafana soccer game. “Bafana Bafana” actually means “Boys Boys” in Zulu, but it is the name of the South African national soccer team. The game was against Japan and was relatively uneventful with a final score of 0-0. Silly soccer. To celebrate the boring game we naturally had a braii like true South Africans. We went to this awesome “buy and braii” where you buy all the meat you want and then grill it on a provided barbeque. You all sit around the platter of meat and scavenge over it like starving dogs. Braii’s may be one of the top things that I will miss the most about crazy South Africa.
Sunday was a relatively uneventful day. I had planned on taking a surfing lesson but apparently the waves were not big enough. I tried letting the instructors know that despite my outstanding physique and incredibly good looks, I probably would not be riding any 10 foot waves at my first lesson so they should just take me out. It didn’t work. So instead I went to a local market and spent dollars like they were pennies on wonderful items, such as paintings, jewelry, and slingshots. I spent the rest of the day taking cat naps and working on my project. Needless to say, Sunday was a pretty solid day.
And now it is Monday. I’m sitting in our school room trying to convince myself to work on my paper. Hopefully when I write next I’ll have a more positive outlook on the progress of my paper. Wish me luck!

Monday, November 9, 2009

The City That Never Stops Having Fun

85 degrees. Blue skies. 30 second walk to the beach. Guess how my weekend went? J

It all began on Friday night. Since Durban has the slogan of “the city that never stops having fun,” naturally there is quite the night life. We have done a fairly decent job of hitting up a few of the safe dance clubs in large groups. So on Friday night we went to a club called “The Lounge” and danced the night away. As some of you know, I like to dance away the week’s load of stress and baggage.

The next morning I woke up early and headed to a farmer-market-style street fair. This market had an interesting compilation of both boutique-esque artwork and traditional zulu artwork. I managed to drop a few hundred Rand on some wonderful souvenirs and gifts to bring home. Here’s hoping that they will all fit in two suitcases! After the market I went to my first South African soccer match with a few friends and brothers from Cato Manor. It was amazing. I have never experienced such a sporting event. It was a relatively important match between two professional soccer teams—one of them being the “Golden Arrows” from Durban. People were dressed up in choir robes blowing on “vuvuselas,” or horns, and banging drums. We knew this coming in, but myself and the two other girls I was with were the only white people at the game. I felt totally comfortable there because we have lived with black families and whatnot, but you could tell that people were staring at us because they expected us to be uncomfortable. South Africans remind us frequently that “rugby is a white man’s sport and soccer is a black man’s sport.” I guess it’s true.

Sunday was a relaxed beach day. The weather was absolutely gorgeous so the beaches were packed. My friend Rainey and I rented boogie boards and body surfed for a few hours. It was so much fun to ride the warm Indian Ocean waves. We didn’t let the fact that we were the only ones over the age of 8 riding boogie boards stop us from having a good time. I came back to my flat and hand washed some clothing for the first time in my life. I discovered that I actually really enjoy hand washing clothes. I was planning on only washing the bare necessities (socks and underwear), but I found myself having so much fun that I washed just about everything that could possibly need washing. I think I even washed a scarf that I have only worn once. After my escapade of washing I realized that our small drying rack could not accommodate all of my hand washed clothes. Luckily for me I found out that my flat mates do not mind if I hang my underwear from the ceiling fan.

Friday, November 6, 2009

Independent Study Time

It’s the week’s end once again. As the cleaning man of my apartment building told me this morning after I told him TGIF, “time keeps moving quicker and quicker.” Amen to that one, brother.

This week has been filled with work. Sometimes the work is enjoyable, sometimes tiring, and sometimes heartbreaking. I have been traveling around to clinics and hospitals in the Durban area with Dumisani, the outreach coordinator for the Down Syndrome Association. Dumi is a very vibrant and talkative man who is not afraid to talk to people…or introduce me to anyone and everyone. I can’t even tell you how many people I have met this week, but I think it may be a PR. I’m gaining quite a bit of pertinent information for my project, but I’m a little concerned as to how it will pull together into one coherent essay. Somehow things like this always work out in the end, so I’m not too worried J

One thing I have learned from my project so far is that the government-run medical centers vary in the quality and type of care provided. Today I visited a new hospital that is absolutely spectacular. There was local artwork everywhere, the medical staff was very attentive, and the patients seemed relatively relaxed. It made me so fuzzy inside to see a government hospital functioning at a high level. However, once I thought about a hospitals I have visited that are poorly functioning, I realized that care is not equal across the board. The other hospitals are old and literally falling apart. These hospitals seem to have a severe shortage of medical staff and equipment, and the patients were crammed into small, hot rooms. As with many other aspects, South Africa’s medical system has made progress post-Apartheid, but gaps and holes still need to be filled.

As for fun things of the week, the highlight was definitely Wednesday Night Karaoke at a local pub. I will not divulge what time I actually made it back to my apartment, but we all spent a good chunk of the night singing corny American songs and dancing like baboons. The rest of the nights have been relatively low-key with a few NBA games, ice cream runs, and shopping thrown in. This weekend I hope to visit a market I have heard so much about and possibly take a surf lesson! I think the waves here will punish my body, but it just looks like so much fun.

Upon request from Man Cub (aka my brother Conner), my things I like/don’t like list is returning. So here it is:

Things I like about S Africa:
1. Watching surfers at 5 am in the morning ride the Durban waves
2. Incredible lightning storms that roll over the ocean at night
3. Peoples incredible and legitimate interest in getting to know you
4. Observing Zulu mama’s excitedly roll around in the surf because most cannot swim
5. Men that address a group of girls with “hellos” as the plural of hello

Things I don’t like so much about S Africa:
1. Lack of reliable public transport
2. People thinking you are wealthy because you are white or an American
3. Remembering that South Africa functions on ‘African Time’ or 30 minutes late
4. The constant construction for the 2010 World Cup
5. Having to do schoolwork when the beaches are so sandy and warm

Monday, November 2, 2009

Cato Revisited

Happy belated Halloween! And happy belated birthday to my wonderful mother dearest J

This past week was absolutely nuts and chaotic. I spent the majority of the week fine tuning my 25 page paper on South Africa’s Brain Drain. Not necessarily the most fun I have ever had, but I guess it didn’t kill me to act like a student for a week. Actually, after a few days of absorbing myself in stacks of literature on my topic, I started to have this sick desire to continue my work. I guess that helped me get through the week.

After we handed in our papers, all we wanted to do was have fun. But no worries, I restrained myself from having too much fun because I started work with the Down Syndrome Association the next day. So far everything has gone splendidly with the association. I have already had the chance to conduct several interviews and meet many influential people in the field of Down syndrome. Today I actually visited a government hospital with the outreach coordinator. It was quite shocking to see the hundreds of people waiting throughout the hospital just register to see a nurse. Sadly, many of the people arrive at 5 am in the morning with their children and will never see a nurse.

Going back to the weekend, on Saturday afternoon I traveled back to my home in Cato Manor. It was absolutely wonderful to see my family again and have a tasty, home cooked, South African meal. I felt like I was back where I belong…I knew where all the cups were kept, sat on my Mama’s plastic covered couches, and most importantly, watched Janet Jackson music videos. It was really hard for me to leave my family again after such a great evening with them. I hope to be able to visit them at least one more time before I must leave the city of Durban.

Yesterday, I went on a run, napped on the beach, and went shopping. Probably one of the most relaxing days I could ever have. It was amazing.

And now it’s the week. I will visit more hospitals and clinics this week with my organization. It’s going to be a great week of learning and challenges. Have a good one!

Monday, October 26, 2009

Fluids and Foreskins

Sanibonani! Hello everyone! I hope you had a wonderful weekend where ever you may be. As promised, I worked hard this weekend but also managed to squeeze in some enjoyable moments. It was an absolutely beautiful day on Saturday, so I took a break and went down to the beach to go sunbathing and swimming. Later in the day I traveled to an Indian township with my friend Karthik to have dinner at one of his family friend’s house. We enjoyed a large feast of tasty Indian food, including a dish of sheep feet. I quickly transitioned into a food coma and went to bed relatively early. Yesterday was my friend Rainey’s 22nd birthday so I helped bake and eat a delicious cake. A group of us also went to dinner at a fancy seafood/sushi restaurant. I had some mouth-watering, curry-flavoured, deep-fried, Durban fish for a surprisingly reasonable price of only 50 Rand. If it helps at all, today’s exchange rate is 7.48 Rand for one U.S. Dollar…so this makes this meal about $6.68!
Since I’m spending so much time complaining about all of the academic work I must complete, I’ve decided that I should reveal some details about what I’m actually studying. Despite all of my grumbling, I actually really enjoy the topics I am studying. I’m currently writing a rather large paper about the medical brain drain that is occurring in South Africa. Essentially what is happening in this country is that health professionals are being trained in country then leaving for greener pastures. There are various reasons for why the health professionals are leaving, such as low salary, high crime rates, and high burden of disease. The loss of all of these doctors, nurses, and specialists contributes to many of the problems in South Africa’s public medical sector. So that summary along with a long list of other points is what I have been busy regurgitating and calling an essay.
Another academic area I have not spoken much of is all of the superb lectures that I’ve had the chance to hear on my program. We had two lectures today; the first was about the ethics of practicing medicine and the second was titled “Fluids and Foreskins” in which we discussed the history of blood, menstrual fluid, ear wax, etc. You name the bodily fluid and I bet you that we conversed about it. The titles of past lectures include, “Technology and Malaria Interventions,” “Alternative, Complimentary, and Integrated Medicines,” and “Rural Health and Social Justice.” It’s relatively impressive the quality of lecturers that we have the opportunity to enjoy. We have had professors from local universities, doctors from hospitals, chairpersons of NGO’s, and traditional healers share their wealth of knowledge.
I’m going into hibernation now and I will emerge at the end of the week with a solid essay and a start on my independent project. Here is to a productive week!

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Cowboys in Dance Clubs

My life actually had some regularity this week for the first time since arriving in South Africa. This is not necessarily a good thing because this regularity is driven by my large load of academic work I now have on my plate. I have spent most of the week scrambling around to complete the proposal for my Independent Study Project (ISP). Comparatively, I’m actually in a better position than most of my school mates in regard to organizing my ISP, but it’s still been a little stressful. My academic director summarized my situation the best: “your experiential learning is now slowing, and your academic learning is blooming.” I’m choosing rebel to try to prove my academic director wrong. I think it’s possible to get my work done AND continue my experiential learning. Here is the low-down on what new experiences I’m continuing to create:
Last Friday night I went to the dance club that sits right below my apartment building. I carefully selected this night because it was “Cowboy Night.” I was so entertained to see South Africans wearing cowboy hats and flannel while singing along to “Sweet Home Alabama.” Later on in the weekend I went to a township called KwaMashu just outside of Durban with a few South African friends. Prior to visiting this township I was warned that it is a black township that never has white visitors. Sure enough all of the kids started screaming out “umlungu” when they saw me, which means “white person,” but that even happened in Cato Manor during my homestay. However it was still very interesting to observe the neighborhoods’ reaction to my visit, but it was even more interesting to interact with the neighborhood. Everyone was extremely welcoming and friendly. I took pictures with grandmothers, ate barbequed goat, and skipped rope with kids. Definitely experiential learning.
I have also managed to play lacrosse on the beach, have dance parties with my flat mates, and watch ESPN Sportscenter. I guess these may not be classified as experiential learning, but they do bring me comfort. I have also had the chance to speak with some close family and friends from home over the past week which always uplifts my spirits. There is nothing like hearing a familiar voice after months of disconnect.
This weekend I plan on cracking the whip to complete and edit my two essays. Unfortunately this means my experiential learning will have to be suppressed for a few days, but hopefully I’ll be able to take some fabulous study breaks. I already have a list of ideas: swim in the Indian Ocean, walk to a street vendor market, and watch some South African soap operas. It should be satisfying.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Escaping Goats

I’m back once again! I just finished my second and last rural homestay in the area of Impendle in the province of KwaZulu Natal. I very much enjoyed my eventful experience. This rural area was a little more developed than the last, therefore there was a little less “roughing it.”
The first night with my family was marked by a huge thunderstorm that ran through the village. The rain was pounding on the tin roof to the point where I couldn’t even speak with my mama who was sitting right next to me. After the thunderstorm passed I walked out to the pit latrine (aka toilet) to do my business. I absentmindedly left the gate open and in the 30 seconds it took me to pee all of the goats escaped into the garden. I ran back to the house to grab my little brother, Siyabonga, to help me find and catch the goats. With my excellent torch (aka flashlight) skills and Siyabonga’s ability to run after goats, we managed to catch all of the goats before they ate the cabbage. I would have felt so bad if the goats had damaged the garden because the garden provides a year’s supply of vegetables for the family.
The next day my group of 13 went and planted trees with some mama’s. It was extremely hard work using a pick axe but the mama’s whipped me into shape. Afterwards we watched a group of school children perform traditional dances in their schoolyard and visited some crafters to purchase some beautiful beading. On our last full day we visited a clinic in the village. We received a tour and spoke with some of the nurses and coordinators. The clinic was impressive in regards to its cleanliness and the fact that all services are free, but there were some obvious pitfalls. For instance, the clinic was severely understaffed which led to extremely long waiting lines. Many of the people have to wait at the clinic for the entire day before being seen by a nurse. Following the clinic visit, we were escorted to a hippie commune outside of the village. It was mindblowing how much it reminded me of home. It really felt like I was at the Saturday Market in Eugene.
Our last night was just as eventful as the first. As part of Erin and my homestay gift, we decided to apply temporary tattoos to our family. We tatted up the kids and mama, but the best part was when grandma ran into the room yelling “give me tattoo! I want one!” as she rolled up her sleeve to expose her bicep. In the end we all had matching flower tattoos. Later in the evening an isangoma, or a traditional healer, came to cleanse the house. Our mama told us that some man had been coming and planting bad medicine at her house because he has a grudge with her ancestors. The isangoma came to rid the house of all the bad vibes that the man brought. It was amazing to watch the isangoma work. She spread sand in each room of the house then placed candles outside of each door. She did some other activities which I didn’t quite understand, but all in all the process took about two and a half hours.
Overall Impendle was great. I ate like a king for every meal totaling about 4,000 calories per day if I had to put a number on it. I also had porridge for the first time in Impendle. It’s actually quite tasty with a little sugar added. Also, since it is spring time here it is the time for baby animals and boy are they cute! I loved watching the calves and baby goats prance around. My family also had a puppy named Stone that kept us entertained for hours.
And now I’m back in Durban. Yesterday I moved into a beachfront penthouse and it is beyond anything I could imagine. I never in my life thought that I would sleep out on a balcony and wake up to the sunrise over the Indian Ocean. I have six weeks of this and I will enjoy every single day.

Monday, October 12, 2009

Sugar Cane

I’m having trouble figuring out where to even start. The past week has been absolutely amazing, but I’ll try to restrain my excitement in order to keep this post a suitable length.
Last weekend was spent in the beautiful Drakensberg Mountains about three hours away from Durban. We took a nice 3 hour hike to the top a mountain to view cave paintings. The cave paintings were pretty awesome, but they definitely did not compete with the view of the valley. It was easily one of the most gorgeous places I have ever experienced. I posted a picture of the mountains in my last entry. It was wonderful to be out of the city, see the stars, and breathe fresh air.
On Monday, half of us traveled to a rural area called Amatikulu, which sits near the coast about an hour and a half outside of Durban. Myself and my friend Erin lived with a family in a small house where all eight of us slept in one bedroom. We had a few unexpected amenities, such as electricity and a washtub, but did not have running water or a toilet. We coped just fine with the only major problem of having super greasy hair. I know I have stated this once, but living with this family reiterated the fact that you can live a very happy and vibrant life without any luxuries. No one complained, and everyone had a smile on.
Our mama was a Community Health Worker and we followed her around during the day to all of the houses she visits. Each day we probably averaged about 6 to 7 miles of walking on dirt roads, across rivers, and through cow pastures. My mama was also really good at hitchhiking, so we got a few rides to save us many miles of walking. It was an awesome experience to follow my mama and learn about some of health problems in rural areas. Although I must say that I witnessed some extremely disheartening living situations that I will always have etched in my memory.
We returned back to Durban on Thursday, and on Friday we had our ‘Farewell Party’ for our Cato Manor homestay. I have officially packed up my bags and moved out of my homestay house. It was a very sad moment to leave my family that I have grown so fond of. During the last evening at my house we exchanged stories about my time in Cato Manor. I told my mama that I would miss her excellent cooking and she told me that she would miss my laughter. Now who wouldn’t get emotional over such a discussion?! I plan on returning a few times on the weekends to visit with my family before I leave. I just couldn’t cut the umbilical cord right now. Although I must still be cautious because my mama continues to threaten to find and steal my passport so that I can’t leave the country.
I am currently sitting on a balcony at a hostel overlooking the beach, listening to Justin Timberlake, and stroking my clean hair. I leave tomorrow for another weeklong rural homestay where I will be sleeping in cramped quarters, listening to Zulu, and avoiding touching my oily hair. Ignoring my sarcasm, I’m actually extremely excited for another shot at a rural homestay. I’ll do my best to create some more great stories to share!

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Nobuhle

Welcome to my mid-week debrief. I have had some wonderful lectures this week on the topics of sanitation and long-drop toilets, reproductive health, African masculinity, and the “sugar daddy syndrome”. I have also been working hard on conducting preliminary research for my two large papers I must write this semester. I have selected the topics of “The Medical Brain Drain: loss of doctors and nurses from South Africa” and “The Healthcare of Children with Down Syndrome in Durban, South Africa.” I’m pretty excited about both topics, so hopefully this enthusiasm will last through the end of the November when my 50-page report is due.
Other than diligently attending class every day, I have been preparing for my two weeks of rural homestays. On Saturday I leave for a weeklong stint in an area called Amatikulu, where I will have the chance to follow a community health worker on her daily rounds across the rural community. This homestay includes a host of changes: no electricity, no running water, wearing long skirts, sleeping on the floor with children, filtering water, and hardly any English. I expect the week to be challenging, but also highly educational, enjoyable, and eye-opening. I will do my best to post next Friday after I return from the bush to fill you in on my wonderful experience.
I have also been preparing to leave my homestay family in Cato Manor. I broke the news today to my family that my last night with them is next Friday. When my Mama found out she said that she is going to take my passport from me so that I can’t leave the country. And maybe it was a culture barrier, but I did not pick up on any sarcasm. I’m pretty sure my Mama will be crying herself to sleep tonight. I have grown very attached to my Mama and brothers, but I’m pretty sure they reciprocate the attachment and times it by 10. For example, a few nights ago my Mama gave me a Zulu name and insists that everyone calls me by it. You may now refer to me as “Nobuhle,” which means ‘beautiful’ in Zulu.
Before I depart for the African bush, I will leave you with a continuation of my “Things I love/Things I don’t love” list. I know you all can’t wait for my next installment of this tantalizing list, so wish for my safe arrival back to the city! Love you all!


Things I love:
1. Adding e’s to the end of random words, such as “programme” and “centre”.
2. Referring to the traffic lights as “robots” when giving directions.
3. Desire for South Africans to make any reason a viable reason for having a braai and slaughtering a goat. Such reasons include, but are not limited to, paying lobola, weddings, deaths, new jobs, holidays, birthdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.
4. Spinning tops and skipping rope with adorable neighborhood children.
5. Blaming any differences in culture on “TIA” or “This is Africa”.

Things I don’t love:
1. FRIED FOOD. It may taste good, but it sure doesn’t settle well on the stomach.
2. Having to convert my skewed American brain into liters, meters, Celsius, kilograms etc.
3. Being awakened daily at 5 am by barking street dogs, honking taxies, loud music, and my Mama’s snoring.
4. Buying airtime for my pay-as-go cell phone. I miss Verizon.
5. The seemingly uniform obsession with Janet Jackson. I just don’t understand.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Gateway Mall and Labola

Yet another week has come and gone. Last week was filled with typical healthcare lectures, trips to malls, and some springtime rain. Thursday was National Heritage Day so we all loaded into charter buses and went to the beach with our families. We had a wonderful time having a braii (barbeque) and swimming in the Indian Ocean. My mama and older brother had the day off, and my younger brother has a break from school, so we had some quality family time. I learned that my younger brother is practically a sea otter the way he swims in the ocean. I also learned that everyone loves my mama because she is fashionable and my older brother loves to wear my fashionable sunglasses.
On Saturday one of my mama’s good friends had her “labola” celebration. I may have glossed over what this whole labola process means, but let me just extrapolate a bit more because it’s quite an intriguing procedure. Zulu tradition requires the husband-to-be to pay the wife-to-be’s family for her hand in marriage. I witnessed the husband-to-be pay his fiancee’s family in business suits, hats, 20+ blankets, sheep, goats, pots, dishware, and food. The typical labola also entails a payment of cows. The standard is to pay the wife’s family 12 cows, but that number is adjusted according to her ability to be a wife based on her education, virginity status, beauty and whatnot. So when I casually mention that I was offered cows, basically that means that a man wants to pay labola for my hand in marriage.
After the labola celebration I went to Gateway Mall with a few friends. This Gateway is much different than our 1980’s version in Springfield. Rumor has it that this mall is the largest mall in the Southern Hemisphere. I definitely wouldn’t doubt it. It has the largest indoor rock wall in the world, a wave pool to surf in, and just about any store you can imagine. I also rode in a bumper car with my friend’s 5 year old nephew and it was probably the most fun I have had since I was 5 years old. Although this mall is something definitely to experience once, I don’t plan on returning back with my college-student budget.
Yesterday consisted of lots of sitting and listening to Zulu. I went to church in the morning, then was convinced to travel to the hospital to visit my mama’s niece. My day was slightly frustrating because I had no idea what was being discussed in Zulu and my mama made me eat my 5th fried meal in a row. We had lunch in a KFC and I’m pretty sure a man videotaped me eating my fried chicken. Look for it on youtube. Later in the evening I went with a few friends to the medical school to have dinner with some medical students. They cooked us a wonderful traditional South African dinner that consisted entirely of boiled vegetables and chicken! I was pretty emotional at this point and just about cried when I found out that I didn’t have to eat my 6th fried meal in a row.
And this brings us to a dreary Monday morning at school. I’m currently busy preparing for our rural homestays which we leave for on Saturday. I’m trying to get as much homework done and take as many warm sponge baths as possible this week since electricity and therefore hot water is sadly nowhere to be found in these rural areas. I already know that living only a few days in these rural areas is going to be a complete shock to my spoiled American mentality.

Monday, September 21, 2009

XDR-TB and Zulu Wedding

It’s been another great South African week. I really couldn’t ask for more. I have probably said this after every week, but it remains true. I’m still having wonderful, new experiences and enjoying every moment.

Last week I went on my first hospital visit. I was placed in King George V Hospital in the MDR and XDR-TB ward. This means that all of the patients in the ward have a severe case of tuberculosis that is resistant to multiple drugs. Honestly, it was slightly scary to be in the same area as these patients, but I was wearing a mask and the nurses were very protective. We were able to speak to several doctors, nurses, and patients about different aspects of TB in South Africa. Visiting the hospital was one of the best experiential learning times yet, so I can’t wait for more hospital field trips!

The next few days were spent cramming for my Zulu finals. Last Friday I had both a written and oral exam for Zulu, and I think both went relatively well. It’s actually quite amazing how much Zulu we were taught in only a few short weeks. I’m not even close to fluent, but I’m at least able to greet people, have a very basic conversation, and pick up on the topic of most other conversations. Friday night I had a sleepover with my Mama at her boss’s house. My mama is a house keeper for a woman and she was out of town for the weekend, so we house-sat for her Friday night. I was spoiled for a night with my own shower, TV, toilet with a stained glass seat, and a queen sized bed for a night in the guest house. I experienced some re-entry shock because I felt like I was in an American home. I realized that I like the simplicity of life back in Cato Manor.

Two of our neighbors got married this weekend…and I mean ALL weekend. I was so excited to see what a Zulu wedding involved. I learned that it involves partying for three days straight, killing goats every day, beautiful traditional dresses, and African Time. On Saturday we went to the traditional Western-style wedding involving a white dress, bridesmaids, tying the knot etc. Just this part took a solid 5 hours, but the food was really tasty so it was worth it. The next day the couple had a traditional Zulu style wedding in their front yard. Everyone was so excited to show us the Zulu traditions, including the slaughtering of the goat. This time I was nice and close and got to see everything. I learned that every man must know how to slaughter a goat. I also learned that slaughtering a goat is a way that Zulu people connect to their ancestors. For instance, I just learned that one of the families are slaughtering a goat this weekend because the daughter is very sick and they want to try to make amends with her angry ancestors. We also witnessed part of a complicated gift giving process. In Zulu culture the potential husband must pay the bride’s family in cows, blankets, goats and more in order to be married. This tradition is slowly fading out, but it to some extent it is still practiced for most marriages.

This week includes more lectures, mall trips, and a holiday! Thursday is Heritage Day and we are all going to the beach with our families. I can’t wait to swim in the beautiful Indian Ocean again!

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

More Photos!






As promised, I have some photos to share. We technically can only upload three photos a week, so I tried to pick photos with variety.
Top: A visual of the very impressive traditional zulu dance that EVERY girl can do. Look how high they can kick their legs! Maybe later I'll try to post a picture of me attempting to kick my leg that high.
Middle: My younger brother, myself, and my mama in front of their church after a funeral. I LOVED my mama's outfit that day...nothing like flowers and zebra print. And I'm not joking when I say loved.
Bottom: This adorable girl Lisha was my buddy for a day. She escorted me around the neighborhood and took some great pictures with my camera. In the background you can also see what is called a "tuckshop". Many houses around the neighborhood own one of these. They simply sell convenience goods for the neighborhood, such as fruit, bread, airtime for cell phones, cigarettes and shampoo.
Ngiyakuthanda!

Monday, September 14, 2009

Weekend in Cato

Another great South African weekend! I once again did a whole lot of socializing and very little studying. Probably not the best idea since I have a Zulu final this Friday worth a solid 70% of my grade. Maybe I’ll fit in some studying time within the next few evenings. So far I have done a pretty good job of “experiential learning” every evening, but maybe I’ll restrain myself for the sake of earning a decent grade.

On Friday afternoon some of the neighborhood girls gave us a little performance of traditional Zulu dances. Somehow every single Zulu girl is able to kick her leg all the way to her head. I have no idea how they do not snap their hamstrings. Luckily for us, they individually made every American come up and dance. Embarrassing pictures to come. Later that evening we had a house party to celebrate a few birthdays. We just danced the night away. However, fortunately or unfortunately (however you choose to look at it), I am now recognized in the neighborhood by my dance moves.

Saturday, my Mama and I went to a funeral service at her church. It was kind of like going to Sunday mass, except a little more crying and dancing. We then followed the family to the cemetery to watch the burial. It was interesting to view this situation, but the most awkward part was when my Mama leaned up against a gravestone and it toppled over and broke the angel on top. I couldn’t help but laugh. After the funeral we came back home and I went over to my neighbor’s house because they were having a big celebratory ‘braai’. We ate some goat that I watched them slaughter the night before and tasted some homemade Zulu beer. Both were fairly tasty.

Yesterday my Mama and I traveled two hours to visit her sister in another township. She lives in a comparatively large house with a beautiful view of Durban. She also has a little “tuckshop” attached to her house where she sells convenience store goods. Later my South African friend told me that I was probably the first white person to ever visit that township, which would explain some the stares and comments I received.

So I have started making a list titled “Things I Love About South Africa and Things I Don’t”. I decided that I’ll leave a few appropriate entries in most of my posts.

Things I love:
1. Breaking for tea at 10 AM
2. Massive shopping malls, like “The Pav”
3. Baby Monkeys
4. Sweet South African accents
5. Playing indigenous games

Things I don’t love:
1. No showers
2. Limited amount of fruits and vegetables
3. Amount of TV watched
4. Being on lockdown in Cato Manor after dark
5. Remaining segregation

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Regular Week

Sanibonani (Hello All)!

It has been a relatively regular South African week. You know…wake up at the crack of dawn to roosters crowing, eat corn flakes with warm milk, go to school in a bus, visit an NGO in a rural area, come home to Cato Manor, go on a run avoiding marriage proposals, take a cold bath, eat chicken or mutton, try to learn Zulu, then go to bed after watching Generations. I obviously have done some exciting things though this week:

Yesterday we visited a Hindu temple and had a wonderful lunch. Not only were we stuffed to the brim, but we also received a little tour of the beautiful temple overlooking the city. Little known fact: South Africa has the largest Indian population outside of India.

When I went to “the Pav” a few days ago I saw a sports store with a HUGE nike display out front. I look closer and the display was for “Eugene Track Jackets”! I freaked out because it was like a little piece of home here in South Africa. Obviously I took pictures and I’ll do my best to post them.

Last night I went to a gym to workout. This gym was absolutely spectacular! It was large and in charge…way nicer than any gym I have visited in the states. It was fabulous to finally lift and use machines, but I’m pretty sure it was the first and last time for that gym. I was there on a guest pass so it was relatively inexpensive, but a monthly pass is too expensive for a poor college student. Plus, going to a gym regularly would take away time from my homestay family.

Yesterday I come home from school only to find that my neighbor, and my good friend Uejin’s family, have a goat tied up to the fence. They are having a big “braai” this weekend, which is a celebratory BBQ, where they plan on slaughtering and eating a goat and three chickens. I CAN’T WAIT!

This weekend should be pretty exciting. I am staying home in Cato Manor with my family and they are so stoked to show me some more things. For some reason they can’t wait to take me to a funeral on Saturday. I apparently will also go meet my mama’s rich sister. I never really know what I’m getting myself into, but so far everything has been enjoyable. Here’s to a great weekend!

Monday, September 7, 2009

Private Jets

Quite the weekend. Yebo (yes).

I spent the weekend away from my Cato Manor family. We all stayed in hostels near the beach and had a little bit of freedom after a few weeks of lockdown. Although I must say that I missed umndeni wami (my family) and they missed me too. I received an SMS (text message) from my mama last night that said “hi Katie it has been quiet since u left this house. we miss u. we hope u don’t come sick. goodnight and sweetdreams. from mama ningi.” I don’t quite understand what “don’t come sick” means, but nevertheless it makes me feel good that my family wants me to come back home. I also spoke with my real family (shout out to America) for the first time since being in South Africa. It was so great to hear everyone’s voices. My mom also managed to set up skype and I was able to see their beautiful faces.

Even though I had tons of school work to do, I managed to spend most of my time playing and “experiential learning.” Friday night we all went to “Joe Cools” which is a club on the beach. It was a culture shock to be in a club full of wealthy white people since most of my time has been spent in a black community. The next day was spent at the ulwandle (beach) where I swam in the Indian Ocean for the first time! It was incredibly salty but very warm compared to our frigid Pacific Ocean. The whole experience was great except for the fact that I became very bitter about being unable to surf. We have a list of no-no’s due to insurance reasons, and surfing happens to be on the list along with skydiving, shark-cage diving, and driving motorcycles. I also convinced myself on Sunday that I did not need to study so that I could return back to the beach where I did more swimming and I played lacrosse on the beach with Ben.

Saturday night I was introduced to two different types of parties in South Africa. First we went to a party in a very rich white neighborhood. The second party was a birthday party in an all black neighborhood. It was intriguing to observe the cultural differences in the two types of parties. I personally enjoyed the latter more because I was able to dance the night away. At this party I was also offered to be picked up in a personal Mercedes to take a ride in a man’s private jet but obviously I kindly declined.

Overall this weekend was filled with fun and not enough studying, but sometimes that is just the way it needs to be.

Ngiyakuthanda (I love you)!

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Photos




Just a quick post while I'm at a hostel and able to upload photos...


This is my house I live in at Cato Manor. So cute!


This is Ben and I in the Johannesburg Airport. Obviously we are excited to have finally made it!
k, my time is about to run out! bye!

Friday, September 4, 2009

Indigenous Games

I wasn’t planning on posting again today, but yesterday was just so exciting that I couldn’t resist (plus I’m in a class right now where I can “double-task”).

So I’ll just give a play-by-play of the past twenty four hours:

I went home to my wonderful family and the power was back! I was so excited because it has been a few days since I took a warm bath. My mama was extremely excited to cook on the stove and watch her favorite soap operas. Before dinner I went to the park to play some lacrosse with Ben. One of my neighbors, Thando, who took us to the park, convinced us to play an indigenous South African game with him and some other locals. This game was incredibly awesome! It was a combination of all of the greatest playground games: kickball, soccer, dodgeball, and ultimate Frisbee. If I must say so myself, I wasn’t too bad of a player. I think being a professional indigenous game player is in my near future.

So after an hour or so of learning and playing an awesome game, I returned a DARK house…the power was out again! My mama had to cook dinner again on a camping stove while I held up my “torch” (aka flashlight). I took a cold bath in the dark then went to bed. Then the excitement began. The electricity came back on around 10 pm and all was good until my brother found a fire in the kitchen! Apparently my mama accidentally left some newspaper on the stovetop when the power was off, and when the power was switched back on the paper caught on fire. Luckily they were able to stop the fire before it became too big. All the while I was sleeping. I am a very deep sleeper and none of the houses have smoke alarms, so I was literally left in the dark until this morning when I saw the black walls and stovetop.

Now I’m at school slightly disheveled because I haven’t had a good shower in a while, I have been doing homework via flashlight, and I just read that the Ducks lost yesterday. But all is still good. I’m preparing to go play in the Indian Ocean this weekend. No big deal.

SHOUT OUT TO MY FELLOW LAXERS: There is a HUGE mall here called “The Pavilion” that EVERYONE goes to/talks about/worships. However, all of the locals call it “The Pav.” Every time I hear it I literally turn around because I think someone is calling me. No one else here really understands the significance of the nickname Pav, but it still gets me every time :)

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Power Outages and Generations

I can’t believe it’s already Thursday! They have been keeping us really busy this week, plus a few wrenches have been thrown into the mix.

As some of you know, I’m a big fan of making lists so here is a list of this week’s highlights:

1. Yesterday I visited a 1st-12th grade school for students with mental and physical disabilities. It was an incredibly well run school in a country that struggles with education. I was very impressed with the staff and students and I am interested in studying this school for one of my research papers.

2. Last night there was a power outage in the township I live in due to a tsunami wind storm. It was pretty interesting to see how the neighborhood functions without power. My family had a propane stove to cook dinner and lots of candles. Unfortunately power outages are a common occurrence here and it is hit and miss as to when the power will actually come back on. So instead of sitting in a dark house all night, a few friends, some local South Africans, and I went to the mall to have dinner.

3. We are spending this weekend out on the town without our families. When I told my mama about this she was extremely disappointed. My entire family has become pretty attached to me. My mama has been introducing me as her second-born child. My older brother informed me that he must meet an South African man I hang out with so that he can see if the man is a good guy or not. And my younger brother follows me everywhere to make sure I’m safe. It’s quite cute, but it will be nice to have some (safe) freedom this weekend.

4. Here are some other random South African happenings:
a. Two men on South African’s favorite soap opera, Generations, kissed yesterday and it is what EVERYONE is talking about today.
b. It’s been pretty hot here and I’m LOVING it! And to think it is just winter here…
c. Even though learning Zulu is a daily struggle, I’m starting to realize that it is an awesome language. It’s the most basic language I have ever learned PLUS it has clicks. Could it get much cooler?

That is all for now. I hope all is well abroad wherever you may be!

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Weekend!

Saturday:
So I’m stuffed to the brim. My family keeps on feeding me and gets worried when I can’t finish my meal. We have been warned that the families brag about who has the chubbiest student in the end, so I think my Mama is trying to fatten me up. I just ate some pretty yummy stew with some mystery meat (I have given up trying to guess what meat I’m eating). So far the food has been really good. And despite one meal that upset my stomach, I have had relatively few food problems. The main staples are rice, corn, and chicken. A LOT of chicken. Just about every restaurant and fast food chain is chicken related. KFC’s are as common as McDonalds in the states. In fact, KFC was one of my 5 meals today.
Today, my mama, younger bhuti, and I made a trip to the store to get food. All told, the round trip was about 5 hours. We first had to take a “minibus taxi” in order to get onto an “Indian bus”. Minibus taxies serve the same purpose as our taxies in the states, except that they hold about 12 passengers. Now, this “Indian bus” was quite the trip. The bus is equivalent to a charter bus + stuffed animals hanging from the windows + crazy attendants yelling + erratic driving + hip hop music BLASTING throughout the bus to the point where you cannot hear the person next to you. It was quite the cultural experience to say the least.
It’s been fun seeing the excitement around the FIFA World Cup in 2010. I had the chance to see the new soccer stadium in Durban today and it is absolutely beautiful. Apparently there is a cable car that takes you over the stadium so you can see down into it. I wish I was going to be here for the games!
Tomorrow I am going to church in the morning. My younger bhuti is very excited for me to go because he is an altar boy. He is going to have me sit in the front row. After church my older bhuti’s girlfriend is going to “change my hairstyle” which apparently means give me cornrows/microbraids. This could turn out very good or very, very bad.

Sunday:
Today I combined two things that I have trouble understanding: Catholic Church and Zulu. It was very interesting to see the traditions at my family’s church, although I don’t know how much I actually understood since it was all in Zulu. However, I do know that when they called my name to stand up in front of the whole congregation, the words USA, Obama, and “Cat-lyn” were all mentioned in the same sentence. My younger bhuti was very professional as an altar boy and he told me that one day he wants to be Pope John Paul. He warned me beforehand that everyone would stare at me because I’m new but more importantly because I’m white. Many people did stare, especially the kids. Somehow I ended up sitting in the front section with all of the Sunday school children. They all wanted to sit next to me and hold my hand during prayer. It was quite adorable. Everyone is very friendly, but apparently just not used to seeing a white person in their neighborhood.
I did not have enough time to get my hair braided today but I’m pretty sure I won’t be able to avoid it next weekend. I also found out that the mystery meat I ate yesterday was sheep. Apparently we have been eating lots of sheep. Good to know.
Sala kahle … Stay well :)

Friday, August 28, 2009

Sawubona!

Sawubona! That means “hello” in Zulu. Zulu learning is a little rough, but it’s getting better now that I have a new family to practice with! My mother’s name is Mama Ningi and she is very sweet. She is a domestic worker and cooks great meals for the family. I have two bhuti’s (brothers). The older brother is named Mino and he works manufacturing trucks. He likes to talk about politics and music, especially R&B and rap. The younger brother is named Aslam and he is in high school. I have been helping him with math homework at night and he helps me with Zulu J
On the first night we watched Usher Live in Concert which obviously was a highlight for me. They all really love music and it’s been fun learning and listening to their favorite songs. I have learned that everyone in Durban, and I really do mean everyone, watches a soap opera called ‘Generations’. It starts at 8 pm so we all huddle around the TV and watch the drama. It’s in half Zulu and half English so it’s a good challenge. Apparently many of them also watch “The Bold and the Beautiful”. It’s seems kind of funny to me, but South Africans really like their soaps. My family also invited me to go to a traditional wedding later next month. I am so excited to go! My classmates are already bribing me with cows to be my date.
I’m spending the weekend with my family. Our plan is to clean the house, go to the mall, go to church, and study Zulu. I’m sure we will also eat a lot of chicken and watch a lot of soaps.
Note: unfortunately the internet is limited and we are not able to upload photos. The South African bandwidth is limited and it’s difficult to upload pictures. If I come across an internet café or something that has a higher bandwidth, I’ll try to upload some sweet South African pictures.

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Classes begin!

Made it to Durban! It really is a beautiful city…we are staying in a hostel near the beach and are surrounded by palm trees. And it’s quite a bit warmer than Johannesburg which makes me happy. Today we leave the hostel to move into our homestays in the Cato Manor township. I’m really excited to meet my family. It is just a woman and her 25-year old son, but I think that will be good to not have any crying babies keeping me awake at night. It’s going to be very interesting to see what it is like to live in the township. Apparently many of the mothers lock the doors around 6 pm and do not let their daughters leave the house for safety reasons. I have a feeling I’ll get some quality “me” time while on lockdown.
Today we had a nice little session of Zulu speaking. The clicks aren’t too difficult to say, but it might take me a while to become a little more fluid. Afterwards we experienced what is called a “dropoff”. Basically a partner and I were dropped off in the middle of downtown Durban and had to find our way to a specific site. We were sent to the Durban Botanic Garden which was absolutely gorgeous. We had tea and scones in a tea garden ran by old women for about $2.00. On another random note, some monkeys walked into the kitchen at our classroom house and spread jelly handprints everywhere. Gotta love some African wildlife.

Monday, August 24, 2009

On to Durban...

Yesterday we went to the play “Umoja,” which is about the music and dance of South Africa. It started with the traditional tribal dances and morphed through the dance styles of the 1800 and 1900’s. The play was a great little background to the deep history of South Africa. We all felt a little enlivened and inspired after the upbeat play.
I’m currently on a bus headed from Johannesburg to Durban AKA my home away from home for 4 months. We have passed zebras and ostriches, and the trees look like they are straight out of Lion King. It’s been a tad bit cold, but I have learned to deal with wearing the one sweatshirt I brought over and over again J. It’s also extremely dry here, so bloody noses and chapped lips have been frequent sightings.
This morning we had an intro course to Zulu, the language we will be learning. So far I can pretty much just say “Hi,” but hopefully after I master the random clicks I’ll be able to have at least a basic conversation. In other random news, I’m becoming quite good at dividing large numbers by seven since that’s the exchange rate from Rand to U.S. dollars. Yesterday I bought a smoothie bigger and better than Jamba Juice for about $2.00. I have also managed to avoid being jetlagged. It took some convincing that I didn’t really need sleep, but I managed to succeed. Lastly, some of the program leaders that drive our buses listen to my favorite hip hop music, like Lil Wayne, Ludacris, and Beyonce. Life is good.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

First Full Day

Today we made an excursion to Soweto, a township outside of Johannesburg. We visited a museum dedicated to the student demonstrations that triggered the end of the apartheid. The museum was very moving and informational with personal accounts of the demonstrations and riots. Afterwards we had a traditional African buffet where we tried tripe AKA intestine. Ignoring the texture, I would say it was surprisingly tasty. Later we toured the house that Nelson Mandela lived in; it was completed with a room for a bucket toilet and looked like every other tiny house in the neighborhood.

So far we have had just a little taste of South African culture, but it just makes me excited for more!

Friday, August 21, 2009

NYC and AFRICA!

I am officially in love. New York City was amazing. Mink, Ben, and I traveled to “The City” (what they call NYC on the E.C.) to stay with Mink’s Aunt Laurie. She lives in a cute little apartment in Manhattan close to just about everything. Mink’s aunt spoiled us to the bone, with everything from delicious meals to personal car service to booking our airport shuttle. She made it such an enjoyable experience! The first evening in The City we visited Central Park…we just missed the thunderstorm that knocked down hundreds of trees in the park! We also walked up Broadway and into Times Square at night to see all of the bright lights. It was just like you see in the movies with crazy cabs drivers everywhere and bustling New Yorkers trying to get somewhere. The next day the three of us plus our UPS buddy Lindsey, who is interning in NYC, took a ferry out to see the Statue of Liberty. Although it was the hottest day of the summer, we managed to survive to see her. We came back to the mainland and walked back up Broadway, stopping along the way multiple times to do touristy things, such as eat New York style pizza and take pictures of pretty churches.
Early the next day we caught a shuttle to JFK to head to Africa! I think the short shuttle ride was a great way to end our little stint in The City…when we got in the whole van was fighting about the air conditioner. While this was all happening I could have sworn that we were going to hit something (cars, pedestrians, dogs, curbs, etc.). Despite the stressful/funny shuttle ride we made it safely to the airport and boarded our plane to Johannesburg.
And now I’m in South Africa! The plane ride was a bit long, but I managed to get quite a bit of sleep. I’m currently trying to stay awake until 9 pm tonight so that I’ll get at least somewhat acclimated to the 9 hour time difference. We are staying in a hostel in Johannesburg for a few days for an orientation. The weather is a bit chilly (about 60 degrees F), so I played some soccer with a little local girl. Ben and I also showed her how to play lacrosse :)

Monday, August 17, 2009

East Coast Adventure

I left on August 15th for my great South Africa adventure! First my traveling buddy, Ben, and I are making a pit stop on the east coast to venture around. After flying in at 5 am we spent the yesterday walking around Boston. We managed to cover the majority of downtown, including a festival in Chinatown, eating cannolis in Little Italy, watching sail boats in the harbor, and viewing several historical sites. Now we are in Farmington, Connecticut, visiting our dear friend Ana (aka Mink :) ). We toured Ana's favorite place, Miss Porter's School, and since it's been so hot and humid we went swimming in the Farmington River. Tomorrow we are off to NYC!