Sunday, September 27, 2009

Gateway Mall and Labola

Yet another week has come and gone. Last week was filled with typical healthcare lectures, trips to malls, and some springtime rain. Thursday was National Heritage Day so we all loaded into charter buses and went to the beach with our families. We had a wonderful time having a braii (barbeque) and swimming in the Indian Ocean. My mama and older brother had the day off, and my younger brother has a break from school, so we had some quality family time. I learned that my younger brother is practically a sea otter the way he swims in the ocean. I also learned that everyone loves my mama because she is fashionable and my older brother loves to wear my fashionable sunglasses.
On Saturday one of my mama’s good friends had her “labola” celebration. I may have glossed over what this whole labola process means, but let me just extrapolate a bit more because it’s quite an intriguing procedure. Zulu tradition requires the husband-to-be to pay the wife-to-be’s family for her hand in marriage. I witnessed the husband-to-be pay his fiancee’s family in business suits, hats, 20+ blankets, sheep, goats, pots, dishware, and food. The typical labola also entails a payment of cows. The standard is to pay the wife’s family 12 cows, but that number is adjusted according to her ability to be a wife based on her education, virginity status, beauty and whatnot. So when I casually mention that I was offered cows, basically that means that a man wants to pay labola for my hand in marriage.
After the labola celebration I went to Gateway Mall with a few friends. This Gateway is much different than our 1980’s version in Springfield. Rumor has it that this mall is the largest mall in the Southern Hemisphere. I definitely wouldn’t doubt it. It has the largest indoor rock wall in the world, a wave pool to surf in, and just about any store you can imagine. I also rode in a bumper car with my friend’s 5 year old nephew and it was probably the most fun I have had since I was 5 years old. Although this mall is something definitely to experience once, I don’t plan on returning back with my college-student budget.
Yesterday consisted of lots of sitting and listening to Zulu. I went to church in the morning, then was convinced to travel to the hospital to visit my mama’s niece. My day was slightly frustrating because I had no idea what was being discussed in Zulu and my mama made me eat my 5th fried meal in a row. We had lunch in a KFC and I’m pretty sure a man videotaped me eating my fried chicken. Look for it on youtube. Later in the evening I went with a few friends to the medical school to have dinner with some medical students. They cooked us a wonderful traditional South African dinner that consisted entirely of boiled vegetables and chicken! I was pretty emotional at this point and just about cried when I found out that I didn’t have to eat my 6th fried meal in a row.
And this brings us to a dreary Monday morning at school. I’m currently busy preparing for our rural homestays which we leave for on Saturday. I’m trying to get as much homework done and take as many warm sponge baths as possible this week since electricity and therefore hot water is sadly nowhere to be found in these rural areas. I already know that living only a few days in these rural areas is going to be a complete shock to my spoiled American mentality.

Monday, September 21, 2009

XDR-TB and Zulu Wedding

It’s been another great South African week. I really couldn’t ask for more. I have probably said this after every week, but it remains true. I’m still having wonderful, new experiences and enjoying every moment.

Last week I went on my first hospital visit. I was placed in King George V Hospital in the MDR and XDR-TB ward. This means that all of the patients in the ward have a severe case of tuberculosis that is resistant to multiple drugs. Honestly, it was slightly scary to be in the same area as these patients, but I was wearing a mask and the nurses were very protective. We were able to speak to several doctors, nurses, and patients about different aspects of TB in South Africa. Visiting the hospital was one of the best experiential learning times yet, so I can’t wait for more hospital field trips!

The next few days were spent cramming for my Zulu finals. Last Friday I had both a written and oral exam for Zulu, and I think both went relatively well. It’s actually quite amazing how much Zulu we were taught in only a few short weeks. I’m not even close to fluent, but I’m at least able to greet people, have a very basic conversation, and pick up on the topic of most other conversations. Friday night I had a sleepover with my Mama at her boss’s house. My mama is a house keeper for a woman and she was out of town for the weekend, so we house-sat for her Friday night. I was spoiled for a night with my own shower, TV, toilet with a stained glass seat, and a queen sized bed for a night in the guest house. I experienced some re-entry shock because I felt like I was in an American home. I realized that I like the simplicity of life back in Cato Manor.

Two of our neighbors got married this weekend…and I mean ALL weekend. I was so excited to see what a Zulu wedding involved. I learned that it involves partying for three days straight, killing goats every day, beautiful traditional dresses, and African Time. On Saturday we went to the traditional Western-style wedding involving a white dress, bridesmaids, tying the knot etc. Just this part took a solid 5 hours, but the food was really tasty so it was worth it. The next day the couple had a traditional Zulu style wedding in their front yard. Everyone was so excited to show us the Zulu traditions, including the slaughtering of the goat. This time I was nice and close and got to see everything. I learned that every man must know how to slaughter a goat. I also learned that slaughtering a goat is a way that Zulu people connect to their ancestors. For instance, I just learned that one of the families are slaughtering a goat this weekend because the daughter is very sick and they want to try to make amends with her angry ancestors. We also witnessed part of a complicated gift giving process. In Zulu culture the potential husband must pay the bride’s family in cows, blankets, goats and more in order to be married. This tradition is slowly fading out, but it to some extent it is still practiced for most marriages.

This week includes more lectures, mall trips, and a holiday! Thursday is Heritage Day and we are all going to the beach with our families. I can’t wait to swim in the beautiful Indian Ocean again!

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

More Photos!






As promised, I have some photos to share. We technically can only upload three photos a week, so I tried to pick photos with variety.
Top: A visual of the very impressive traditional zulu dance that EVERY girl can do. Look how high they can kick their legs! Maybe later I'll try to post a picture of me attempting to kick my leg that high.
Middle: My younger brother, myself, and my mama in front of their church after a funeral. I LOVED my mama's outfit that day...nothing like flowers and zebra print. And I'm not joking when I say loved.
Bottom: This adorable girl Lisha was my buddy for a day. She escorted me around the neighborhood and took some great pictures with my camera. In the background you can also see what is called a "tuckshop". Many houses around the neighborhood own one of these. They simply sell convenience goods for the neighborhood, such as fruit, bread, airtime for cell phones, cigarettes and shampoo.
Ngiyakuthanda!

Monday, September 14, 2009

Weekend in Cato

Another great South African weekend! I once again did a whole lot of socializing and very little studying. Probably not the best idea since I have a Zulu final this Friday worth a solid 70% of my grade. Maybe I’ll fit in some studying time within the next few evenings. So far I have done a pretty good job of “experiential learning” every evening, but maybe I’ll restrain myself for the sake of earning a decent grade.

On Friday afternoon some of the neighborhood girls gave us a little performance of traditional Zulu dances. Somehow every single Zulu girl is able to kick her leg all the way to her head. I have no idea how they do not snap their hamstrings. Luckily for us, they individually made every American come up and dance. Embarrassing pictures to come. Later that evening we had a house party to celebrate a few birthdays. We just danced the night away. However, fortunately or unfortunately (however you choose to look at it), I am now recognized in the neighborhood by my dance moves.

Saturday, my Mama and I went to a funeral service at her church. It was kind of like going to Sunday mass, except a little more crying and dancing. We then followed the family to the cemetery to watch the burial. It was interesting to view this situation, but the most awkward part was when my Mama leaned up against a gravestone and it toppled over and broke the angel on top. I couldn’t help but laugh. After the funeral we came back home and I went over to my neighbor’s house because they were having a big celebratory ‘braai’. We ate some goat that I watched them slaughter the night before and tasted some homemade Zulu beer. Both were fairly tasty.

Yesterday my Mama and I traveled two hours to visit her sister in another township. She lives in a comparatively large house with a beautiful view of Durban. She also has a little “tuckshop” attached to her house where she sells convenience store goods. Later my South African friend told me that I was probably the first white person to ever visit that township, which would explain some the stares and comments I received.

So I have started making a list titled “Things I Love About South Africa and Things I Don’t”. I decided that I’ll leave a few appropriate entries in most of my posts.

Things I love:
1. Breaking for tea at 10 AM
2. Massive shopping malls, like “The Pav”
3. Baby Monkeys
4. Sweet South African accents
5. Playing indigenous games

Things I don’t love:
1. No showers
2. Limited amount of fruits and vegetables
3. Amount of TV watched
4. Being on lockdown in Cato Manor after dark
5. Remaining segregation

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Regular Week

Sanibonani (Hello All)!

It has been a relatively regular South African week. You know…wake up at the crack of dawn to roosters crowing, eat corn flakes with warm milk, go to school in a bus, visit an NGO in a rural area, come home to Cato Manor, go on a run avoiding marriage proposals, take a cold bath, eat chicken or mutton, try to learn Zulu, then go to bed after watching Generations. I obviously have done some exciting things though this week:

Yesterday we visited a Hindu temple and had a wonderful lunch. Not only were we stuffed to the brim, but we also received a little tour of the beautiful temple overlooking the city. Little known fact: South Africa has the largest Indian population outside of India.

When I went to “the Pav” a few days ago I saw a sports store with a HUGE nike display out front. I look closer and the display was for “Eugene Track Jackets”! I freaked out because it was like a little piece of home here in South Africa. Obviously I took pictures and I’ll do my best to post them.

Last night I went to a gym to workout. This gym was absolutely spectacular! It was large and in charge…way nicer than any gym I have visited in the states. It was fabulous to finally lift and use machines, but I’m pretty sure it was the first and last time for that gym. I was there on a guest pass so it was relatively inexpensive, but a monthly pass is too expensive for a poor college student. Plus, going to a gym regularly would take away time from my homestay family.

Yesterday I come home from school only to find that my neighbor, and my good friend Uejin’s family, have a goat tied up to the fence. They are having a big “braai” this weekend, which is a celebratory BBQ, where they plan on slaughtering and eating a goat and three chickens. I CAN’T WAIT!

This weekend should be pretty exciting. I am staying home in Cato Manor with my family and they are so stoked to show me some more things. For some reason they can’t wait to take me to a funeral on Saturday. I apparently will also go meet my mama’s rich sister. I never really know what I’m getting myself into, but so far everything has been enjoyable. Here’s to a great weekend!

Monday, September 7, 2009

Private Jets

Quite the weekend. Yebo (yes).

I spent the weekend away from my Cato Manor family. We all stayed in hostels near the beach and had a little bit of freedom after a few weeks of lockdown. Although I must say that I missed umndeni wami (my family) and they missed me too. I received an SMS (text message) from my mama last night that said “hi Katie it has been quiet since u left this house. we miss u. we hope u don’t come sick. goodnight and sweetdreams. from mama ningi.” I don’t quite understand what “don’t come sick” means, but nevertheless it makes me feel good that my family wants me to come back home. I also spoke with my real family (shout out to America) for the first time since being in South Africa. It was so great to hear everyone’s voices. My mom also managed to set up skype and I was able to see their beautiful faces.

Even though I had tons of school work to do, I managed to spend most of my time playing and “experiential learning.” Friday night we all went to “Joe Cools” which is a club on the beach. It was a culture shock to be in a club full of wealthy white people since most of my time has been spent in a black community. The next day was spent at the ulwandle (beach) where I swam in the Indian Ocean for the first time! It was incredibly salty but very warm compared to our frigid Pacific Ocean. The whole experience was great except for the fact that I became very bitter about being unable to surf. We have a list of no-no’s due to insurance reasons, and surfing happens to be on the list along with skydiving, shark-cage diving, and driving motorcycles. I also convinced myself on Sunday that I did not need to study so that I could return back to the beach where I did more swimming and I played lacrosse on the beach with Ben.

Saturday night I was introduced to two different types of parties in South Africa. First we went to a party in a very rich white neighborhood. The second party was a birthday party in an all black neighborhood. It was intriguing to observe the cultural differences in the two types of parties. I personally enjoyed the latter more because I was able to dance the night away. At this party I was also offered to be picked up in a personal Mercedes to take a ride in a man’s private jet but obviously I kindly declined.

Overall this weekend was filled with fun and not enough studying, but sometimes that is just the way it needs to be.

Ngiyakuthanda (I love you)!

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Photos




Just a quick post while I'm at a hostel and able to upload photos...


This is my house I live in at Cato Manor. So cute!


This is Ben and I in the Johannesburg Airport. Obviously we are excited to have finally made it!
k, my time is about to run out! bye!

Friday, September 4, 2009

Indigenous Games

I wasn’t planning on posting again today, but yesterday was just so exciting that I couldn’t resist (plus I’m in a class right now where I can “double-task”).

So I’ll just give a play-by-play of the past twenty four hours:

I went home to my wonderful family and the power was back! I was so excited because it has been a few days since I took a warm bath. My mama was extremely excited to cook on the stove and watch her favorite soap operas. Before dinner I went to the park to play some lacrosse with Ben. One of my neighbors, Thando, who took us to the park, convinced us to play an indigenous South African game with him and some other locals. This game was incredibly awesome! It was a combination of all of the greatest playground games: kickball, soccer, dodgeball, and ultimate Frisbee. If I must say so myself, I wasn’t too bad of a player. I think being a professional indigenous game player is in my near future.

So after an hour or so of learning and playing an awesome game, I returned a DARK house…the power was out again! My mama had to cook dinner again on a camping stove while I held up my “torch” (aka flashlight). I took a cold bath in the dark then went to bed. Then the excitement began. The electricity came back on around 10 pm and all was good until my brother found a fire in the kitchen! Apparently my mama accidentally left some newspaper on the stovetop when the power was off, and when the power was switched back on the paper caught on fire. Luckily they were able to stop the fire before it became too big. All the while I was sleeping. I am a very deep sleeper and none of the houses have smoke alarms, so I was literally left in the dark until this morning when I saw the black walls and stovetop.

Now I’m at school slightly disheveled because I haven’t had a good shower in a while, I have been doing homework via flashlight, and I just read that the Ducks lost yesterday. But all is still good. I’m preparing to go play in the Indian Ocean this weekend. No big deal.

SHOUT OUT TO MY FELLOW LAXERS: There is a HUGE mall here called “The Pavilion” that EVERYONE goes to/talks about/worships. However, all of the locals call it “The Pav.” Every time I hear it I literally turn around because I think someone is calling me. No one else here really understands the significance of the nickname Pav, but it still gets me every time :)

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Power Outages and Generations

I can’t believe it’s already Thursday! They have been keeping us really busy this week, plus a few wrenches have been thrown into the mix.

As some of you know, I’m a big fan of making lists so here is a list of this week’s highlights:

1. Yesterday I visited a 1st-12th grade school for students with mental and physical disabilities. It was an incredibly well run school in a country that struggles with education. I was very impressed with the staff and students and I am interested in studying this school for one of my research papers.

2. Last night there was a power outage in the township I live in due to a tsunami wind storm. It was pretty interesting to see how the neighborhood functions without power. My family had a propane stove to cook dinner and lots of candles. Unfortunately power outages are a common occurrence here and it is hit and miss as to when the power will actually come back on. So instead of sitting in a dark house all night, a few friends, some local South Africans, and I went to the mall to have dinner.

3. We are spending this weekend out on the town without our families. When I told my mama about this she was extremely disappointed. My entire family has become pretty attached to me. My mama has been introducing me as her second-born child. My older brother informed me that he must meet an South African man I hang out with so that he can see if the man is a good guy or not. And my younger brother follows me everywhere to make sure I’m safe. It’s quite cute, but it will be nice to have some (safe) freedom this weekend.

4. Here are some other random South African happenings:
a. Two men on South African’s favorite soap opera, Generations, kissed yesterday and it is what EVERYONE is talking about today.
b. It’s been pretty hot here and I’m LOVING it! And to think it is just winter here…
c. Even though learning Zulu is a daily struggle, I’m starting to realize that it is an awesome language. It’s the most basic language I have ever learned PLUS it has clicks. Could it get much cooler?

That is all for now. I hope all is well abroad wherever you may be!